Holiday Hours

Beginning December 14th our hours are as follows:

Monday-Friday 10am - 6pm

The Hospital is closed:

December 24, 25, 26, 27.

January 2

Regular hours resume on January 3rd.

The staff at the Cat Hospital of Burlington wishes all of our patients and their families the happiest of holiday seasons!!!!

feeding your cat

Cats are obligate carnivores. As such, their main dietary needs are protein and fat. They have very little need for carbohydrates and, in fact, do not digest them well. Unused carbohydrates are then stored as fat.

source

Convenience food

The introduction of dry cat food, although wonderfully convenient for their human counterparts, has not necessarily been kind to cats.  The very nature of dry cat food means it is substantially higher in carbohydrates and substantially lower in water, than is ideal to keep your kitty at a healthy body weight.

source

Unless careful consideration is given to type of diet, portion control and feeding plans, cats fed a solely dry diet will eventually end up overweight. 

Obese cats are at great risk for many of the same serious diseases that affect humans - diabetes, heart disease, osteoarthritis -- as well as one other - hepatic lipidosis which can place your kitty in a life-threatening situation in a matter of days.

An ounce of prevention

 If you were to ask anyone who has ever tried to help their kitty lose weight, they'll tell you it's a difficult proposition. Keeping your cat slim in the first place is a much easier option.

Introducing canned food into your cats' diet is one of the best ways to avoid obesity.

Canned food is lower in carbohydrates and the protein content helps your kitty feel fuller for a longer time, therefore avoiding the desire to snack continually on dry food. An additional benefit is the higher water content which contributes to a healthier urinary system and reduces the chance of kitty becoming constipated.

Feeding your cat multiple small meals throughout the day will mimic their natural feeding pattern and providing the largest meal in the evening will take advantage of their innate metabolic system of utilizing calories in the most efficient way.  Carefully measuring portions will also combat inadvertent over-feeding.

Balance

It is possible to have the best of both worlds. Feeding canned food at specified mealtimes and leaving a very small amount of dry food out for nibbling on throughout the day and night can keep you and your cat happy. 

Ask your veterinary staff to help you tailor a specific feeding plan that contains the appropriate portions of a high quality veterinary diet.  Investing in good nutrition and feeding can mean a longer, healther life for your beloved cat.

Cats and carriers, pt.2 - video

Handy tips to acclimate your cat to his/her carrier.....

Getting here...the {almost} stress-free trip to the veterinary hospital

So you've found the perfect carrier.

What next?

Considering that, for most cats, the only time they ever go in the carrier and then into the car is for a trip to the veterinarian -- it's no wonder they don't greet the experience with great enthusiasm.

In many households, the carrier gets hauled up from the basement or from the garage once a year and then once the dreaded event is over, back it goes into storage, not to be seen again until the following year or in the event of a sick or injured kitty.

If you'd like for your cat to go into the carrier willingly and subsequently travel in a calm, relaxed, stress-free manner -- there are a few easy steps you can take to help your kitty adapt.


Location, location, location
Once the Perfect Carrier has been purchased, the best thing to do is to place it, not in the garage, but in a prominent area in the home -- preferably somewhere your cat spends a lot of time. Eventually, natural curiousity will take over and your kitty will simply have to investigate.

Curb Appeal
 Make the carrier attractive to your cat by placing treats, toys and a comfy blanket inside. If your cat enjoys catnip, then sprinkle a bit in the doorway and then at the far back of of the carrier to encourage him/her to step inside.

Only when your cat seems happy and comfortable inside the carrier, should you consider closing it up. Let the first time be very short and be sure to open it back up again while your kitty is still calm and relaxed.

Repeat this process as often as needed until your cat accepts the confinement for longer and longer periods.

Patience is key.

Eventually, your cat will view the carrier as prime real estate.


Have Carrier, Will Travel
So you've spent lots of time acclimating your kitty to the carrier, he/she goes in and out confidently and has come to view it as a superb napping place and an excellent place to hoard the best toys.


How to translate that ease and comfort to the realm of the car and veterinary office?

Again, it's all about taking it slowly.  Take your cat, in her carrier, out to the car and just sit for a while without going anywhere.   As with the first time the carrier was closed, leave the car while your cat is still calm and relaxed.

secure the carrier properly using the seat-belt

Depending on previous experiences, the next step may be to simply start the car without moving, or you may be able to move ahead and try short trips.

Ideally, it's best that getting your kitty into the carrier and then the car, doesn't always end up at the veterinary office! Take your kitty to the drive-thru to pick up coffee, or perhaps a quick trip to drop off library books or dry-cleaning.

Here at the Cat Hospital we welcome you dropping by with your cat for no other purpose than to fuss over and admire them!  "No-pressure" trips such as these help your cat to feel that not all trips to this strange place need be upsetting or invasive.  This also makes it easier for you to schedule things like weigh-ins or nail trims without causing undue upset.

As always - remember to reinforce your cat's relaxed and happy demeanor with tasty treats and lots of love. If ever there is a set-back, go back to the beginning and start again.


Destination: Annual Check-up
Eventually, of course, the trip will end up in an annual health exam.  However, because of the time and care you've taken to make the carrier and traveling in the car a familiar and comfortable experience, both you and your kitty will arrive at the clinic in a much more relaxed frame of mind.

Getting your cat here in a more relaxed state lessens the chance of compounding anxiety once you arrive. Keeping favourite toys and treats handy in the carrier will reinforce the feeling of familiarity and help your kitty feel *safe* and protected while in unfamiliar surroundings.

You'll breeze through the exam and be able to stop for coffee and pick up your dry-cleaning on the way home!

Cat Carriers...what your cat would like you to know

For some cat guardians, nothing says stress like transporting their kitty to the veterinary hospital.    

Difficulty in getting their cat into a carrier and/or the distress caused by a once-yearly car trip is the most common reason we hear for otherwise well-intentioned owners skipping out on the very important annual physical exam for their beloved pet.

Fortunately, with careful consideration of what type of carrier to buy and some helpful hints on acclimatizing their cat to both the carrier and the car, many of our clients have been able to overcome this difficulty.

Carriers provide a sense of safety and security for your cat -- they offer a sense of being hidden in a secure and closed container while in unfamiliar surroundings. 

There are many types of cat carriers -- from the practical to the outlandish -- pet supply manufacturers provide us with more choices than ever before. However, if your kitty was in charge of the decision, he/she would have a few recommendations...

Size: 

The adorable little carrier that fits your 8 week old kitten perfectly may very well prove too small once he/she has grown to adult size. While most kitties enjoy small, snug spaces and feel safe in there -- when it comes time to leave the carrier when at the veterinary hospital -- tight quarters can prove problemmatic.  Ideally, the carrier should be large enough for your cat to stand and turn around comfortably.

Visibility:  Some cats like to be able to see out of the carrier while others prefer being more fully-enclosed. An easy way to soothe an anxious kitty is to provide a blanket or towel to cover the carrier, providing them with much-appreciated privacy.

Style:

There are many options when it comes to style of carrier -- from the traditional hard plastic variety to soft-sided and 'gym-bag' versions.  Although it's a matter of personal preference, there are a few things to consider. 

Traditional hard plastic carriers are the most common type we see. They're sturdy and functional allowing a varying degree of visibility for your kitty and are the type preferred for airline travel etc.  If that's your preference, consider purchasing a carrier that easily comes apart -- easy-snap clips on the side allow the top and door to be removed which facilitates easy transfer for your kitty in and out of the carrier. A removable top is beneficial for fearful and aggressive cats, as well as for elderly, sick, painful or limited-mobility cats.  Often,  nervous kitties at our hospital enjoy having much of their physical examination done while sitting in the bottom of the crate with the "lid" off!

a conventional hard plastic carrier with quick-snap release
 to remove  the top and door

Also a good option is the carrier that offers more than one access point. "Top-loaders" make entering and exiting the carrier easy and stress-free for your cat. Many cats do not appreciate having a strange person reaching into their carrier and pulling them out! Being able to pop their head out and check out the new surroundings is always welcome.

a slightly fancier version with top-loading door

Ideally, a carrier should offer both end doors and a top-loader.
In addition, many of this type will completely unzip to slowly expose the cat

Choosing the right carrier for your cat will reap long-term rewards -- the easier it is to use, the less stressful an event it will be - for both of you - to transport your beloved feline.

Do-It-Yourself Healthy Cat Checklist

While regular  health exams performed by your veterinarian are necessary to maintaining your cat in good health, you can still play an important role as guardian of your cat's well-being.

 Performing an at-home physical is likely much easier than you might think.  You, after all, know your cat best and understand the subtleties of habits and behaviour of your particular friend.  You know what's *normal* for your kitty. With this knowledge in mind, you are in the best position to assess your cat on a day-to-day basis by performing the following quick and easy "mini-physical".

Before you begin...here are few tips:

1. Don't restrain your cat while you are examining him/her -- let this be an extension of the regular attention you give your kitty.  Remember, you needn't do a full exam all at once...it can be spread out over a few days.
2. No fighting allowed -- if a struggle ensues, accept that your time is up and don't insist on finishing.  A struggle means that you have outstayed your welcome!
3.   Never attempt an examination after a play session -- the best time is when kitty is already quiet and relaxed.  Sneak a quick exam in while the two of you are cuddled up watching television or reading the newspaper.  

Now.... what to look for:

 Skin and Hair

It helps if you already have a regular grooming ritual -- and if you don't, why not start one? This gives you the easiest way to assess the condition of your friends' skin and haircoat.  Close inspection will reveal such abnormalities as lumps and bumps, balding patches or fleas.  Pay special attention to your cats' belly as mammary tumours are a concern for females - especially those that are unspayed or were spayed later in life (ie. after 6 months of age).  Don't forget your kitty's nether-regions - it's not considered too personal to inspect her rear end -- check for cleanliness, especially in long-haired cats.  A lack of attention to personal hygiene may be a sign that your cat is either disinterested or unable to groom properly -- both of which need to be addressed.

Next, inspect her feet and toes to check for ingrown toenails.  This is of special concern with older cats and those who are polydactyl (extra toes).

Eyes and Ears

Eyes should be clear and without tearing or discharge.  Pupils should be of equal size and react the same to changes in light.  If your cat appears to be squinting or the third eyelid has drawn over the surface of the eye, this may be a sign of disease or disorder.  Unless the ears are pigmented, the inner surface should be a light pink and without odour or discharge.

Say "Aaahhh"

It rarely occurs to most people to inspect the inside of their cats' mouth -- indeed, for some, it would be a perilous venture! IF your cat will permit, without risk of injury to either of you, it's a good idea to keep an eye on what goes on behind those lips.  Gums, like all healthy tissue, should be light pink, with no sign of redness or swelling and teeth should be free of tartar build-up.  Become familiar with the *normal* odour of your cats' breath.  Even with a clean and healthy mouth, cat-breath will never be minty fresh, but neither should it be unbearably horrific.  Broken, loose or missing teeth should be noted, as should any evidence of pain or discomfort.  While drooling is normal for some cats while in the throes of your love and attention, excessive drooling may be an indicator of a disease process.

In a very short amount of time and with minimal effort, this quick exam can provide you with an overall picture of your cats' day-to-day health.  Also worth noting are ANY changes in activity level, appetite or thirst, litterbox habits, grooming behaviour or general attitude.  Cats are, by nature, creatures of habit so any variation from the norm should be considered significant.  When in doubt, a visit to your veterinarian is in order.

Adapted from CatWatch, Cornell University- College of Veterinary Medicine, Vol. 13, No.7, July, 2009.

The Great Deworming Debate

Many times we hear the phrase..."But Fluffy is an indoor cat, why should I worry about parasites?".

While it's true that an indoor cat has less chance of encountering parasites than their outdoor counterparts, they are still at significant risk of exposure.  The kitty may not venture outside, but their guardians surely do. 

Parasites are evolutionary marvels.  Their life cycle is entirely dependent upon the right host at the right time for each stage of development.  It stands to reason then, that they have adapted to suit their needs.  The eggs of many intestinal parasites can survive in the environment for weeks or months, even in extremes of temperature, until they find their host.  Many times, this connection is made inadvertently - we walk in the grass where the microscopic eggs are lying and we are suddenly a parasite taxi service.

All it takes to infect  Fluffy is for her to walk across the floor where you have stepped with your outdoor shoes and then lick those paws and the lifecycle of a parasite moves on to the next phase.

Apartment dwellers are at great risk for the transfer of ectoparasites such as fleas as eggs can live in the carpets of common hallways and the cracks of baseboard and doorways.  Fleas themselves, are an intermediate host for tapeworms so come with a double risk of infestation.

Not convinced yet?  Many common intestinal parasites of cats are considered zoonotic.  

This means that an untreated infestation in your cat can become a very serious one for you and your loved ones.

In 2004, the Companion Animal Parasite Council published standard guidelines for parasite control in pets. These are reviewed and updated yearly and detailed information about parasite life cycles, disease, treatment and prevention can be found here. 

Here are a few of the basic recommendations that we are following:

• Year-round treatment with broad-spectrum flea/deworming preventatives that have activity against parasites with zoonotic potential.
• Physical examination and complete history at least once yearly.
• Feeding only cooked/prepared (no raw) food and provide fresh, potable water.
• Fecal examinations 2-4 times during the first year of life, then 1-2 times annually (more if an outdoor cat or if not on year-round preventatives).
• Bi-weekly deworming beginning at three weeks of age until 12 weeks of age, then monthly until the kitten is 6 months old.

We don't want to scare you but.......

•  Feline roundworm (Toxocara cati) can infect children and cause visceral larva migrans (VLM) and ocular larva migrans (OLM).  Because the disease is related to accidental ingestion of infective eggs from the environment, young children are at the greatest risk due to their tendency to put things in their mouths. A recent survey done in the U.S  by the CDC found a prevalence in children of 14%!  Depending on infection levels and the extent of tissue damage and inflammation, infections can vary from mild or covert, to life-threatening.
•  The feline tapeworm (Diplylidium caninum) can infect children if they ingest fleas containing the larva.  The tapeworm then matures in them and causes mild gastrointestinal disease and perianal irritation along with associated itching and scratching.  The small segments may be seen in the perianal area or the child's diaper or underwear and be misdiagnosed as pinworm infection.

And that is why we talk about flea prevention and deworming for ALL of our patients and their families.

©Melanie Leavey, 2009 - reprint with permission.